Susanne and I are Iowa State Cyclones, meeting as undergraduate students in Ames, Iowa. I graduated two years ahead of her and we lost touch after I moved east to enter the corporate world. At times we’d reconnect, but not regularly until my family and I moved back to the Midwest. Today she lives in rural Southwest Iowa and commutes to her corporate banking job in Des Moines. She’s everything one could ask in a friend-supportive, trustworthy, loyal and fun. The fact that she’s spontaneous and enjoys travel elevate her to the top of my “girls to travel with list.” In September 2014 we followed through on a shared interest and traveled six hours west of Sioux Falls to attend the Annual Buffalo Round Up and Arts Festival in Custer State Park in Custer, South Dakota, south of Mt. Rushmore.
We started our journey driving 73 miles west to visit the The World’s Only Corn Palace in Mitchell.
It’s open year round and has free admission to see the corn murals redesigned each year between Memorial Day and Labor Day.
We continued another 70 miles west to Chamberlain, SD. The information rest area here has spectacular views of the Missouri River and surrounding area. It should be a “must-stop” on everyone’s trip through South Dakota.
We lunched at Al’s Oasis, home of the 5-cent coffee, and continued west on I-90 making it to Mt. Rushmore before dusk. No matter how many times I’ve seen the monument, the vast size and patriotic symbolism still move me to tears. I sat alone on a bench staring at the four presidential busts, admiring these men for their leadership and valor and thanking them for keeping our country free and strong.
We toured, shopped, and then left seeking out our Custer, SD lodging. We trusted our navigation system only to be led onto a dirt road. We got lost in the best way possible. As we drove through forested land, herds of deer greeted us and narrow passages raised our blood pressure. The views, however, were some of the most spectacular we saw on the entire journey. Eventually we found our hotel. Finding a restaurant open after 8pm was more challenging. It was disappointing and surprising that restaurants closed so early when Buffalo Round Up tourists descended here and needed places to eat. The other awakening was the type of available food-steak and potatoes-everywhere we went. That or convenience store food were the options. [If you attend this event and steak and potatoes are not your fare, pack food. We would next time.]
We left the hotel at 5am Friday, taking Route 16A to the North Viewing Area. [There are tour company shuttles available. We chose to drive ourselves, and would do it again.] As expected, the route was very dark and we only saw one event directional sign, shortly after leaving the hotel. The lack of traffic made us doubt our navigation skills. However, getting nearer the location, the lit line of taillights assured us we were in the right place. Susanne talked to park officials prior to leaving Sioux Falls so we knew thousands attended the Round Up. Since both of us have limited mobility, we were advised that the North Area was more ideal than the South Viewing Area. We took advantage of our handicapped sticker and walked only a few feet to set up our chairs and wait for nearly five hours before the buffalo were rounded into the area. Thankfully the weather cooperated and there were lots of interesting people to watch. Breakfast was available for purchase; we didn’t. We’d brought nibble food in Zip-Lock bags. Human nature here was no different than anywhere else. Some arrived late and felt entitled to sit in front of those who arrived hours in advance, causing conflict and verbal bantering. [There was no visible law enforcement in the viewing area.] Others stood in front of those who no longer can stand, completely blocking their view. Despite this, when the buffalo were rounded into the area around 11am, it was a spectacular, thundering sight-one all should be blessed to experience at least once-in-a-lifetime. While waiting, we met guests who’ve attended 10 or more Round Ups, some from as far away as Massachusetts and others as close as Rapid City, SD.
The “Round Up” was anti-climatic for these two farm-raised girls who both herded cattle as children. Then we considered it less than ideal work and certainly not a spectacular event. At this Round Up, the buffalo are moved over hills by riders on horseback and drivers in pick-up trucks and then herded into a fenced area and paraded in front of viewers before being led into corrals for sorting and separating. Once in view, the entire event lasts less than 20 minutes. Afterwards, guests can walk or be shuttled to the corrals, enjoy a lunch or leave. Had we known what leaving was like, we’d have chosen one of those options. First-in or closet-to-viewing-area parking meant last out. We waited over an hour to get out of the park. By this time we were starving.
We followed the line of traffic through Custer State Park and found parking for the much advertised and well attended Arts Festival.
Food challenges remained. Trust me, we aren’t picky eaters, but only two options were available: Buffalo sandwich with chips and a soft drink for $13 or a hot dog. We both reluctantly chose the sandwich. And, it wasn’t very good. [We’d suggest packing a cooler with food to enjoy in the viewing area and for lunch afterwards, if your tastes don’t match these choices.] With temperature soaring to over 80 degrees and getting cranky and tired, we did a quick walk-through of the arts show and headed back to the hotel for a much-needed break.
Visiting Prairie Berry Winery in Hill City cured our buffalo blues. My initial experience at their Sioux Falls location was not favorable, but I enjoyed everything about this location-the layout, the customer service, the samples, the retail products and the building itself. It was charming and a much-needed stop on our journey. After a brief visit here, we found dinner in downtown Hill City, where once again, steak was the featured menu item at most restaurants. The one we dined at also had a salad bar and we felt like we’d struck gold! I wish we’d had more time to spend in Hill City, SD. I found the artistic influences comforting and inviting. I will return.
Our evening ended with my favorite part of the day-Crazy Horse Memorial Light Show. I’ve been to the Memorial multiple times but had never seen the Legends in Light Laser Show. It was worth every penny and every minute. It is that well done. Plan to go early to visit the museums and gift shop. We sat in our vehicle for the show but there are also benches in an outdoor viewing area. [Mt. Rushmore also hosts an evening lighting ceremony. It too is well done. If possible, attend both.]
Final Note on Annual Buffalo Round Up
Months later, Susanne and I still discuss whether or not we’d attend the Annual Buffalo Round Up again. The answer for me is “no” My curiosity is completely satisfied. This is not to diminish the event or discourage you from attending because I’m most grateful that I could, and did. I can only imagine what else we could have experienced during those 8 hours we spent getting to, and being at, the Round Up. In addition, it’s important to understand the Round Up itself is a full day. Over planning the day and having herded cattle as children perhaps also lessened the experience for us.
Have you had the pleasure of visiting the Black Hills area of South Dakota? Have you attended an annual Round Up? If so, how do your impressions vary from mine? What other tips can you offer for first-time travelers?
Copyright. May 2015. Linda Leier Thomason.